When you think of fish restaurants in the UK, inevitably the mind wanders to the north coast of Cornwall, where seasoned chefs like Nathan Outlaw and Rick Stein have built a reputation on the back of outstanding fish and seafood cookery. But in the heart of London on the eighth floor of the South Place Hotel, Angler is serving up a predominantly fish and seafood menu of incredible depth and quality, led from the front by executive chef Gary Foulkes.

As chefs go, they rarely come as well-travelled as Gary. He’s spent over two decades cooking at the very highest level, working with the likes of Gary Rhodes, John Campbell, William Drabble and Phil Howard before embarking on a three-year odyssey around the world. Gary’s travels were as fruitful as his time in kitchens and the result is evident in his food today – the menu at Angler blossoms with influences from across the globe, married with Gary’s fantastic touch and eye for produce.

Tartare of yellowfin tuna comes with avocado, wasabi and shiso – an incredible combination of flavours inspired by Gary’s time in Japan. Roast octopus with taramasalata, Suffolk potatoes and red wine bagna cauda conjures something different – Ionian flavours from coastal Italy and Greece – and the echoes of Gary’s classical French culinary upbringing comes through beautifully in the white onion velouté with Vacherin Mont d’Or, truffle chantilly and black truffle toast. Of all these inspirations, it’s Gary’s love for the Far East that shines brightest in his food – he serves Porthilly oysters with a dashi vinegar, crab ravioli with roasted seaweed consommé and buttermilk panna cotta comes with miyagawa – a green-skinned satsuma that originates from Japan.

Seasonality and sustainability is another big factor on Gary’s menus, and though there are some things that stay on year-round, the accompaniments will change regularly. Visitors to Angler will almost always find cod on the menu, for example, but in the summer it’ll come alongside beautiful summer vegetables and girolles, whilst the winter brings earthier delights – parsley root and sprout tops. Other fish and seafood will only come on the menu when it is in season, and Gary avoids some things altogether in the name of sustainability, choosing plentiful yellowfin tuna over the prized-but-endangered bluefin, for example. Alongside the à la carte, Angler offers lots of seasonal menus, including a truffle menu to celebrate the short-but-sweet truffle season – as well as a nine-course tasting menu that features the very best seasonal seafood.

The restaurant is smart and stately – no doubt in part due to its proximity to the City of London. Pressed white napkins, tablecloths and gleaming cutlery can sometimes have an air of stuffiness, but Angler is stylish, bright and airy thanks to the large plate glass windows that bathe the restaurant in light and offer impressive views over London.

Wine is also an important part of the experience at Angler and the restaurant offers a huge selection from all over the world, with free corkage for those who wish to bring their own bottle. With all bases covered and beautiful views over the City of London, Angler is a must-visit for fish and seafood lovers.